Liz Claiborne Relinquishes Sourcing Operation For $83 Million

In its latest effort to help extricate itself from the recession, Liz Claiborne Inc. (LIZ) is turning over its sourcing operations for $83 million in cash to global apparel exporter and supply chain specialist Li & Fung (0494.HK).

Li & Fung will be responsible for identifying and conducting negotiations with vendors to make Liz Claiborne products and merchandise - except for jewelry - and monitor quality.

The agreement encompasses all of Liz Claiborne's brands including the Isaac Mizrahi line it is just starting to roll out in department stores like Macy's Inc. (M) and Dillard's Inc. (DDS).

The accord is a financial shot in the arm for Liz Claiborne. "Of course, we want to do whatever we can do to pay down debt and improve our credit metrics," spokeswoman Dana Stambaugh said. "We are also interested in improving our inventory turn rate, margins and profitability - this partnership affords all of those."

The sweeping move means that Liz Claiborne may be ceding some control, but will likely save money by having a more consolidated approach, and potentially be able to bring merchandise to market more quickly, analysts said.

Liz Claiborne will still handle the artistic end of things, like design, as well as merchandising, although analysts say it isn't clear what will happen to the hundreds of Liz Claiborne employees who had been handling sourcing until now.

The move is an about face for Liz Claiborne, which hired Li & Fung in November to be the sourcing agent to help fix its troubled Mexx line, but told analysts at the time that there would be no such plans for the rest of its brands.

But times quickly changed. "Within two months of the deal, we already see significant improvements in costing, speed-to-market and calendar adherence," Chief Executive William McComb said.

Based on this, Liz Claiborne felt the "partnering with Li & Fung is the ideal solution," on a broad basis, McComb said. "This is the optimal way to address the issues with our current sourcing infrastructure and a significant strategic opportunity that will enable us to deliver high quality product to our consumers and retailers around the world."

Liz Claiborne has continued to struggle as a slump in consumer spending has battered the retail industry. In addition to seeing slower sales at its own stores, Liz Claiborne has suffered as department stores cut back inventory.

Liz Claiborne in December said it will eliminate 725 jobs, or 8% of its work force, citing the "highly uncertain" economic environment.

In the past two years, the company has closed six distribution centers, cutting 2,200 jobs, and streamlined its brand portfolio by selling, closing or licensing 14 brands. The company has focused on developing its "direct" brands - Liz New York, Kate Spade, Lucky Brand, Juicy Couture and Mexx.

By partnering with Li & Fung, "Liz is doing what they have to do to make themselves more viable, even if it means giving up some control," said Howard Davidowitz, chairman of Davidowitz & Associates. "This may well be a cheaper and more efficient way for them."

The move by Liz Claiborne "is a step in the right direction," said Hana Ben-Shabat, a partner with consulting firm A.T. Kearney.

"There is no silver bullet solution for anything retail right now," Ben-Shabat said. "You have to do many things and this may be an important one."

At the moment, Liz Claiborne's merchandising priority is getting its Isaac Mizrahi-designed namesake line into stores including Macy's, Bon-Ton Stores Inc. (BONT) and Belk Inc.

The Macy's rollout is occurring at a staggered pace.

About half of the 250 stores in Macy's eastern region are carrying it, Macy's spokesman Jim Sluzewski said.

Expansion into other stores in the region "depends on what the response is," Sluzewski said.

Liz Claiborne shares are up 18 cents, or 7.7%, to $2.51.

   -By Karen Talley, Dow Jones Newswires; 201-938-5106;     [e-mail]